As soon as you say Kodaikanal, there is the inevitable sigh of crowd ravaged hill stations. Ooty tops the list but Kodai comes a not so distant second.
Kodai is a car drive away from Bangalore, but this time we decided to take the train. Considering there was family joining us and not everyone is jumping with joy at the thought of a 9 hour car ride, the overnight train was the most acceptable.
Lesson 1 - after a train, there is still a 2 hour cab ride but more on that later.
There is something nostalgic about trains. It reminds you of your childhood, especially if you were living in one part of the country and visiting family (once a year possibly more) in a distant other part of the country (Calcutta {now Kolkata} to Calicut {now Kozhikode}, in my case.) The sound of the train lulls you to sleep, the chatter in the bogie, the noise on the platform, the calls of the tea seller and the pakoda wala hawking their wares, the whistling sound of another passing train, the sound the train makes on a bridge, each of these come together to create a medley in your mind.
The beverage manufacturer, Paper Boat used it to telling effect in one of the most evocative ads on Indian media.
Being back on a platform after a decade came with its own sense of excitement overrunning the general sense of squeamishness.
An overnight journey helps in cutting down on extra days being taken away from the holiday as it drops you early morning refreshed after a sleep ready for Holiday Day 1.
This is where, though, lesson 1, mentioned earlier, comes in. When you get off at Kodai station, beyond the cuteness of the station, you also see a board which says the hills for which you are making this trip is still 80 kms away. So beware all those who think they can trick their motion sickness, you still have 2 hours on winding roads and it is a red carpet for motion sickness. Keep those medicines handy.
Once you reach the place though, there is a distinct change in the temperature. There is a distinct nip in the air, you breathe in freshness, the stray dogs have an extra coat of fur and the mind is happy!
We stayed in an Airbnb cottage called Rajbagh. It is a cute little cottage with 3 bedrooms, can accommodate around 10 people if people are willing to sleep on couches in the living room. The caretaker is welcoming and attends to all your needs. The food is great and the service excellent, definitely a recommended place. There is also a barbeque that was arranged in the evening. They even have a kitchen garden and that was the biggest zucchini I have ever seen. Kids can have a ball just running around in the garden or playing board games indoors (play the ludo only because it is the cutest thing you will see!) Couple of things to remember though, one of the bedrooms doesn't have a cupboard, there is no view as such but the gardens are award winning and you will be amongst greenery. If you are journeying by train, communicate the arrival and departure times in advance so that you do not have to rush out. Overall though, there is nothing to complain about.
There is not much to do in Kodai, honestly. The Lake and the Croaker's walk are both passable, spend the time to chill in the cottage instead. If you are the more adventurous type though, head towards Vattakanal (also popular for Israeli tourists and mushrooms ;)), it is more non touristy so obviously less crowded and has the best views (case in point Dolphin's nose). You could also take some epic photographs from the Pillar rocks just outside Kodai town. The Kookal caves are extremely interesting but do be in shape as the ascent and thus the descent too are steep. This is the settlement of one of the earliest tribes. Berijam Lake is an hour's drive but if you leave early, you will be in time to sit back and relax before the crowd begins to trickle in.
For the foodies, do go to Royal Tibet, it is one of the earliest places and has some amazing Tibetan food. Cafe Cariappa is tiny, next door to Royal Tibet and run by very helpful folks. DO give a wide berth to any of the places your local cab drivers take you to in the centre of town but definitely go to Pastry Corner and have a brownie. The folks who run this place are extremely generous and every time you go in, you will definitely be given a treat free (and who doesn't like free stuff :D). If you are there on a Sunday, visit the Sunday market, nothing exceptional but gives you a feel of the colours and sounds that you miss in a big city!
As I wind down this post, I leave you with the endearing video of a train rolling into the station and a couple of feel good posters seen in Kodai.
Getting there
The best way to get to Kodaikanal is by train to Kodaikanal station and then taking a cab to the hills. Please remember the twisty turny roads do not help with motion sickness. Pre book a cab, it saves you the hassle of arguing on rates. The folks you are staying with, could help you. The nearest airport is Madurai (less frequented by most carriers) and Coimbatore. The ideal way is to land in Bangalore and take an overnight bus or train. The best way is to drive down from Bangalore!