Everytime I go here, there is something different! Updated after the latest trip
My partner is convinced we are being cheated. I agree because deep down I think so too but then it was early morning, there was no way I would want to get into an argument with an auto driver when I could have been devouring breakfast somewhere.
Cut to a month back –
We were discussing where we needed to go for a weekend break and Fort Kochi came up as the requisite destination. It would be that time of the year when Kerala would not be too hot. The regular junta would be missing which would be mean more peace and quiet! Once the destination is done, we quickly try and get the buses booked for the to and fro journeys since most of the NRMs (non-resident-mallus) in Bangalore love to travel back to the home country at every small excuse they get. As expected we could not get seats on the much famed Kallada Travels for our journey into Kochi (or Ernakulam) and could only manage a return ticket. Disgruntled, we booked the onward journey by good ol’ KSRTC (the Karnataka one), choosing to be on some cool Mercedes Benz (multi axle no less)!
About the place – (courtesy the World Wide Web in most places)
Fort Kochi is the oldest European settlement and trade centre in India. Arab, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch and British seafarers had followed the sea route to the Kochi natural harbour and left their impression on the town. So most structures you see will be at least a hundred years old.
The most important touristy destinations are the Chinese Fishing Nets, you get fresh fish caught from the sea and fried immediately in front of you, served with your choice of food (and drink), Jew Town, the synagogue and some Dutch Palace.
The journey itself –
The biggest problem we had was trying to figure out where is it that the KSRTC bus will pick us up from. KSRTC is famed for not stopping for its passengers and waiting for them if they are not at the right place at the right time. So we lugged it to the Shantinagar bus stand, which incidentally didn’t turn out to be too far away and got ourselves safely ensconced in the bus which also SURPRISE SURPRISE was really comfortable. We had decent leg space, reading lights, a movie (some old Aamir Khan one) and my partner declared she was happy! Now, knowing the exacting standards she puts everything (including her own work) through, I think KSRTC would be well deserved to pat themselves on the back on getting such a reaction from her. But then again, she may have pushed her expectations a tad too low and hence was pleasantly surprised. Be that as it may, bottom line she was happy! Rumbling stomachs were quickly put to rest at a McDonalds in the middle of the highway where the bus stopped and soon we were lost in dream world. To be fair, she did have a lot of issues with trying to sleep but she put on a brave front and dismissed most of my concerns. Then again, once I sleep off, there are very few things I realize about the world around me!
The destination –
We reached Ernakulam at some God forsaken early hour of the morning and much to our consternation, got into the first auto that we found. We reached Rossitta Wood Castle, where we were supposed to stay and her dismay continued as the initial room we were given was musty and opened right out into the reception but as I gobbled up an omlette and toast (yes, yes I need my food!) she managed to get us our replacement room and cheered up quite a bit and then was soon ready to face the MALS!
PRESENT
The first thing we notice is the number of foreign tourists in the vicinity. It seemed that we were the only Indians who did not live around there. She was concerned that the non white skin that we possessed would be detrimental to our interests as we would always be second class citizens so to speak in our own country. While it was not very obvious, the love for white skin does exist. I am not too overly concerned about it. First it is more an economic thing – the dollars count for more than the rupee and of course more money can be fleeced out of the firang. The other reason it does not concern me too much is that we don’t have someone hovering around all the time because the first bakra would always be the white skin.
Anyway, our first stop was the famed Chinese fishing nets. By themselves they are not very ‘standoutish’ but they serve to present really nice photo opportunities! My partner has a way with the camera and I gladly let her take over the picture taking sessions, content as I was to play around with the video camera! The sight of all the freshly caught fish had started my tummy rumbling again. We did see this beautiful house by the sea which we wanted to own but realized we probably couldn’t because neither of us worked in the “GELF”!
A lazy, long lunch in the Old Harbour Hotel followed by a long nap saw us back at the sea side once the sun had set. Dinner did see us moving around quite a bit as we tried to decide where to eat before finally settling for the Grande Residencia which is yet another old mansion converted into a hotel.
The next morning, we went to the yet another famous eating joint – Kashi Art Café. She hated it because she felt it was too snooty. We settled in for breakfast at the equally arty but far less snooty Oy’s Café. Many pictures and a full tummy (at least for me) later, we shifted ourselves out to discover Jew Town, the synagogue and the Dutch Palace. Most of these were a letdown especially the Dutch Palace which looked like someone’s plain old bungalow!
What did catch our fancy were the so called antique shops that lined the streets from the Dutch Palace to the Synagogue. Selling quite a few artifacts, they were ready to charge any amount that came to their mind (there was an old toy car that was being sold for 12k). We got ourselves some trinkets and our penchant for boats saw her picking up 2 such ones!
On the way back, we again got charged more by the hotel for a cab to take us to the bus stand and the Kallada bus was itself was not as good (read clean, punctual etc) as the KSRTC but overall it was a fun trip.
Learning from the trip - my partner is now a sworn believer of Mercedes buses and KSRTC services!
Updated pictures from recent trip which also covered the Kochi-Muziris Biennale.
The Biennale as the name suggests happens every 2 years. It is supposedly the largest in India and one of the largest in Asia too. Visiting it is definitely a thing to do once in a lifetime. There are artists from all over the world who showcase everything from installation art to painting to photographs. While it is an expression of each of these artists, the locations are also key to the theme. They are mostly heritage properties which have been somewhat preserved and rented out for the days of the exhibition. It has mostly drawn acclaim for being conceived and executed by artists.
Connecting with people and making art less elitist is something that the exhibition has succeeded in doing.
This year's biennale has been held in the backdrop of the floods that ravaged the state of Kerala and thus makes it all the more poignant.
The place is a must visit just for the whole artistic vibe, biennale or no biennale. Like many others, I have been to this place more than once (quite a few times, actually) and there are a host of things to see. Shall end this post with a bunch of pics from across Fort Kochi from various trips.
Getting there
Cochin airport is the closest airport to fly down. There is a railway station too. From there take an Uber or any of the local cab services to get to Fort Kochi. There are tons of places to stay from uber luxurious to back packers dens. We stayed at many places but the Old Courtyard is the best value for money. Do remember though, it is a heritage building so you do have to climb a steep set of steps for any of the rooms in the higher floors.
Eat at Kashi Art cafe (slightly pretentious now), Mocha art cafe (Steven Spielberg ate there), Koder House (you will get alcohol) and definitely at the live grill seafood stalls that pop up every evening by the sea.
Yorumlar