When my partner told me, let us go to the highest lake in India, I automatically assumed it was in the north. After all, travel in the north does seem synonymous with snow capped mountains and what could be higher than that?
This lake, however, is in the East. Gurudongmar Lake is the highest lake in India where tourists are allowed and it is considered holy by three different religions - Buddhists, Sikhs and Hindus. Now, the latter reason by itself should be a show stopper, different religions agreeing on something is quite rare. But at 17,800 feet, this lake is quite a treat for sore city eyes.
Reaching there is not easy, it involves multiple stops from Calcutta or Guwahati, the nearest airports and a couple of places to get acclimatized on the way. Gangtok is the nearest and biggest town. It is quite a quaint town with it's own picturesque and touristy things to do!
But as you go further north, towards the lake, the landscape changes. The towns become villages and then a cluster of dwellings. The last towns of Lachen and Lachung have just about habitable places to stay. These towns shut down completely in winter because of the snow and people move back and forth between here and going lower down. But you have to be here to get yourself acclimatized.
As you move from here towards the lake, the landscape undergoes a massive transformation. It is almost like the lunar landscape (not that I have seen it), miles and miles of ragged rocks, no vegetation, just barren undulating land. There are army checkposts (the Chinese border is very closeby) and they are also concerned about your health.
And then you reach the lake! It is magical. It is a treat! There are no words.
Coming back you are in a trance. You have just reached heaven. For the ones who like their literature about the place. Legend has it that the lake never freezes completely even in peak winter. You cannot visit the place in winter, because it is inaccessible. This is the second highest lake in India, the highest being the one a trek from here to the lake above this but that is too close to the Chinese border and needs permissions from the army.
Please make sure you are relatively healthy. These altitudes have a deficit of oxygen and it is important to get yourself acclimatized and hence go village by village even though it means a day or two extra. In case of any misgivings, stop and go back. At the lake, do not overexert, oxygen deprivation combined with excessive exertion is definitely detrimental to health.
Getting there
It is not easy to reach Gurudongmar Lake. Gangtok is the nearest airport and railhead. It is best to take the help of a guide service, they will arrange for transport and help in entry facilities. We used Yak n Yeti and we were fairly happy with them. From Gangtok, you will get to Lachen first and then to Lachung village, spending a day each in these places. It is really important to acclimatize yourselves by stopping at these places. The rarified mountain air is not the best to push yourself (repeating, yes I know!)
THe places to stay are arranged by the travel folks and are nothing to write home about. Especially in a place like Lachung (the last village before the Gurudongmar lake) is possibly as basic as can be.
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